Laminate Kitchen Worktops

Place an offcut of laminate kitchen worktops on top of the cabinets of the adjoining worktops close to the opposite wall. Position the adjoining worktops to lay over the already mitred top and the offcut. As this top will be 30/40mm above the cabinet, depending on what size top you are fitting, use a combination square to make sure the overhang from the cabinets is still correct. Ensure at the same time that the front edge of this top aligns with the start of the mitre in the female joint. This can be checked again with the combination square.

Using a sharp pencil mark the underside of the laminate kitchen worktops by running the pencil along the edge of the female joint. At the same time mark the position of the worktops jointing bolts.

Remove this top and mark a line 9mm behind the pencil line. This line marks where the template will sit once the location pins are set to the male mitre position. The 9mm measurement is the allowance for the collet once the router is placed within the template and is standard with all templates I have experience of. This rule must be applied for every cut when using a router even straight cuts using a straight line offcut as a template.

Cut the male mitre, this time on the underside, and cut out for the worktops bolts. Position this worktops in place making sure the joint looks good and then repeat the process of cutting a female mitre on this top and a male mitre on the last adjoining top.

Laminate Kitchen worktops installation - Fitting kitchen sinks and inset appliances

Before sealing the laminate kitchen worktops joints you should cut out any inset appliances such as the sink or hob. Place the worktops in their position and prior to fitting the taps, place the sink upside down in position on the top. Mark around it with a pencil, remove the sink and mark a new line 10mm in from the sink edge. At the same time mark a line along the underside of the worktops at the end of each run in order to cut the worktops to length.

Remove the laminate kitchen worktops and place temporarily on two workhorses for ease of cutting. Drill a 10mm hole just inside the cutting line and cut out for the sink. Apply varnish or PVA adhesive with a brush to the exposed edges. This will protect the edges against water ingress should this occur.

To prevent this however, you will need to apply the waterproof seal around the underside edge of the sink. This may be pre-installed or supplied with the sink but if it is not, you should apply a bead of silicone sealant in its place.

Now you should fit the sink into the laminate kitchen worktops, chiselling out for the fixing clips that will be sitting directly on the cabinets. Should the clips be located over a dishwasher or washing machine this will not be necessary. Tighten the clips and wipe away any excess sealant. Repeat this process for any further appliances fitted into the worktops.

Adding laminate edging

You can now take the opportunity to fix the laminate edges to the worktops ends but first they must be cut to size. To the marks made earlier add 11mm for a 20mm overhang. You may require a greater overhang, if so, deduct your choice by 9mm and add this measurement to the line. Remember to transfer this measurement to the face side for the right hand worktops in order to maintain the left to right router rule. Apply contact adhesive to the cut end and to the edging which should be supplied with the worktops.

Allow them to become touch dry then apply to the worktops ensuring that the laminate just stands proud of the face edge. Using a file at a slight upward angle, gently remove excess until flush with the worktops. The underside edge will have a greater overhang and this also needs removing with a file until flush.

Fixing your laminate kitchen worktops

Place the first two laminate kitchen worktops back in position on top of the cabinets and apply a bead of silicone between the joint. To do this successfully, raise the joint at an angle and apply the silicone. This will probably require an extra hand. Gently lower the tops and remove the excess sealant.

Now, from the underside, fit the worktops bolts and tighten up while at intervals checking the joint remains flush from above. When the joint is pulled together remove the excess silicone and gently tap the worktops flush with a hammer using a scrap piece of wood.

Finally, to remove the film of silicone left across the joint, apply some sawdust across the joint, rub it in and remove the excess with a cloth.